In the following video (published by Lie-Nielsen on YouTube) Deneb Puchalski talks you through the benefits of using a toothed blade and quickly demonstrates how you can use it to dress the face of a curly maple board with massive tearout.

After the joinery is cut and maybe you dry fitted everything so you won’t have any surprises in the end, it’s time to start shaping the piece to its final form.

Shaping tools

The first tool I’ll reach will be either a spokeshave or a rasp depending how much wood I need to remove. I don’t like to use coarse rasps since they will often split the wood instead of cutting it so if I need to remove a significant amount of wood the spokeshave will be the tool of choice.

You have two choices when buying a spokeshave, either with a flat bottom or with a round one. The flat bottom model will allow you to shape straight and convex curves while the round bottom variant will come in handy for concave curves.

After the spokeshave its time to get the rasps and files out of your toolbox. In this category there are two tools I’m extremely fond of – my Auriou modeller’s rasp and my Grobet detail file. These two tools work so much better than any of my other rasps and files that I tend to do all the work with them.

The Auriou rasp is 8″ long and has a 14 grain cut which is very fine when you look at it but cuts incredibly fast without tearing all the wood fibers appart and leaving a rough surface, something that will probably happen if you use a coarse tool. The fact that the teeth on the Auriou are hand cut explains why it cuts so well and leave such a nice surface.

The Grobet detail file pictured above is often used by sculptors that work with wax and other soft materials but works very will with wood. It has coarse teeth on one end and finer teeth in the other which makes the tool a joy to use since you can go from coarse to fine in a fraction of a second by flipping the tool in your hand.

It’s also worth mentioning that both ends are tapered and one side is half round while the other is flat which allow you to work on multiple shapes with the same tool.

Taking good care of your rasps and files is important to ensure that they continue to cut well and the teeth don’t get clogged. For this I recomend a small brush with either nylon or natural bristels. Brass or steel brushes will do more arm than good to your tools and the teeth will dull faster.

Both tools and the small brush are available from Tools for Working Wood.

Next installment: Complementary tools

Everyone who’s been reading Chris’ blog for a while knows he’s a funny guy, but he’s also a talented and knowledgeable woodworker, and above all, a professional journalist. So I gave it a second though and realized I wanted to see what that joke of a tool was all about.

A quick Google search and there it was, right on the first page and being sold on Amazon, the Nicholson WoodChuck Chisel Rasp Set! And it looks freaking odd, like someone decided to play with the tool’s DNA and the result wasn’t quite what they expected.

A few questions cross my mind:

• How do you flatten the back of the chisel on your precious stones?
• How to you do a paring cut without denting the surface around?
• Do you hold the tip of the tool while using the rasp? Watch out, it’s the cutting edge!!

The more I think about it the more I want to go to my shop and take some paring shavings with my Japanese chisels and maybe smooth some curves with my Auriou rasp.

While this task may require various tools like a scrub plane, a jointer, a jack and a smoother, most share the same anatomy.

Take a look at the exploded diagram on the left (click on it for a larger view) and you can get familiar with all the terminology and part names used on a hand plane.

Enjoy:

• Handplane Anatomy

For Stanley handplanes there is The Superior Works: Patrick’s Blood and Gore, where you’ll find all the information you’ll ever need on these classic tools.

The next time someone refers to one of Stanley’s handplanes by their funny numbers you’ll know exactly what they’re talking about.

Next on the list is The Disstonian Institute, which has the name implies will provide you with lot’s of information on Disston handsaws.

Last (but not least) on my list is A Millers Falls Home Page which contains a wealth of information on Millers Falls handplanes, hand drills and bit braces.

Happy reading!

You can no longer say that if you want a good western style chisel you need to get yourself a used Stanley n.750 and restore it to good working condition.

You have manufacturers like Lie-Nielsen that offer a set chisels based on the 750’s and through the use of better raw materials and manufacturing techniques produce a tool that’s even better that the original.

But how much are some people willing to pay for these tools?

Recently I was watching a few items on eBay and when the auctions ended I was quite impressed! But maybe not for the right reasons.

One Lie-Nielsen 102 (bronze low angle block plane) sold for $100.99. That is over the retail price and well over the $87 that is advertised in the Fine Tools Journal website. I wonder why would anyone pay over retail price for a used tool….

Two other interesting auctions were for vintage Stanley n.750 chisels which sold for $47 and $51 each, quite close to the retail price of a brand new Lie-Nielsen which sells for $50.

Would you rather buy a rusty vintage tool than a brand new one that happens to be even better. Let me know what you think in the comments section….

Another interesting fact is that Wenzloff & Sons are no longer taking orders for custom made saws as of August 4, 2008. According to Mike Wenzloff the waiting list for direct orders is well over 4000 saws.

They may resume taking direct orders in the future once they manage to clear the waiting list and there will be a revision of the prices. As it is right now, a custom made dovetail saw would cost you the same as one sold through Lee Valley and when you order directly from Mike you can specify all the details, from the wood species of the handle to how you’d like the teeth sharpened.

I am on that waiting list since February for two handsaws and it looks like it’s getting close to my place on the list. How close? Mike said 2-3 weeks some 3 weeks ago. I guess he’s probably shaping the handles on my saws right now…. I’ll post some photos when they arrive.

A last note on the subject of quality tools is the recent announcement that Stanley will be offering a line of handplanes that will be able to compete with the likes of Lie-Nielsen and Veritas, although the prices published by The Schwarz on his blog are quite lower that the competition.

Further reading:

• Lie-Nielsen Chisels: Better Than Vintage – by The Schwarz
• Premium Dovetail Saws – by The Schwarz
• Wenzloff & Sons – Custom Made Saws

I ordered this tool a few weeks ago and I was a little curious about the quality. Sure it looked good in the photos on the eBay auction and the seller had a good feedback, but even then I wasn’t sure if it would look as good as in the photos. And more important – would it work well?

Then The Schwarz happened to write about a similar hand drill he received from Wiktor Kuc, fully restored, gorgeous and ready to work. I got even more impatient… My package was getting ages to arrive.

Now that it’s arrived, all I can say is that this drill looks and feels as good as new, if not better, since every piece on it has been subject to careful inspection.

And yes, it works beautifully!

Handplanes

Choosing the first handplane may not be an easy task, there are many models to choose from and while each one has it’s funcion, some of them are quite versatile and can be used for various tasks.

When looking for handplanes, some advocate that old is better and that you should get a Stanley or other antique brand name from a local flea market. I don’t agree, specially if this is your first handplane.

A vintage tool will require some restoration and tuning before it will perform well enough to compete with the tools produced these days – significant tuning if you want it to perform as well as the top brand names like Veritas and Lie-Nielsen. This is not impossible, but you really need to know what you’re doing.

If you’ve never used a well tuned handplane before, how will you know how it is supposed to perform if you’re buying a second hand vintage tool? This is why I recomend that for your first handplane you should buy the best tool you can afford.

Quality handplanes sold these days can use some tuning and they’ll perform even better, but out of the box they can perform quite well. Sharpen and hone the iron and you’re good to go.

But which ones should I get?

I would say you’ll need three planes in your basic set: a low angle block plane, a low angle jack plane and a large shoulder plane.

Here are my reasons:

The low angle block plane, preferably with an adjustable mouth, can be used on end-grain and face grain, you can use it as a small smoother to handle difficult grain by changing the bevel angle on the blade and it’s a very handy plane when working with small pieces for small projects.

The low angle jack plane can be a really versatile tool. It can be used as a small jointer to flatten a small board and by closing the mouth and setting the blade for a fine shaving it can be used as a smoother. It won’t replace a full size jointer or a smaller smoothing plane, but as a first handplane it will be a tool that will accomplish many tasks.

The shoulder plane will be useful to adjust tenons, rabbets, and whenever you need the blade to extend all the way across the sole of the plane so you can reach a tight corner. This will be the third plane to get.

From here I would say you should get a dedicated smoother, a jointer plane and then you can dive into specialty planes like the router plane. Or you can start to make your won wooden planes.

Next installment: Shaping tools

Like with western chisels, the back of the blade must be flattened and polished to a mirror finish and it has to be sharpened to a very fine edge.

With Japanese chisels however, the tool is not ready to be used, the hoop on the top of the handle must be permanently set.

Here’s how:

• http://www2.woodcraft.com/pdf/77B66.pdf
• http://www.imcclains.com[...]JapaneseChisels.pdf
• http://japanwoodworker.[...]instructions.pdf

This may seem like a lot of extra work, but I guarantee you that it will be quite rewarding. There is nothing more satisfying than working with a sharp tool that is properly tuned.

What the heck is a dovetail chisel or fishtail chisel? What’s the difference between Western bevel and Japanese bevel? And where do you recommend to buy them?

As I wrote before, Japanese chisels are forged with two types of steel that are welded together during the forging process. One thin layer of very hard steel and a thicker layer of softer steel that will support it. The hard steel will become the back of the chisel and the cutting edge and this is the reason Japanese chisels will keep a sharp edge for a longer time than a western chisel.

Some tests like the Bench-Chisel Review published by Fine Woodworking Magazine will give you a clear evidence of this.

All Japanese chisels that I know of have a hollow (or more than one in wider chisels – see top photo) in the back which makes it easier and faster to flatten the back. Otherwise it would require a lot of work to flatten a large surface of very hard steel.

Usually Japanese chisels are somewhat shorter than western chisels, and I like this feature since my hand is closer to the work and I find it easier to control. Other than these I would say there aren’t any more differences between Japanese and western bevel edged chisels.

As far as the shape of the blade goes, you can find chisels in many different shapes and some are best suited for certain tasks. Bevel edge chisels are the most common since they are the workhorse of a cabinet shop and useful for most tasks.

A timber framing chisel, often used for more heavy duty tasks, won’t have bevels on the sides of the blade and while these can be very good tools for chopping large mortises in a 4×4″ or for paring tasks, for smaller projects you’ll find that the lack of bevels will usually become a problem when reaching the tight corners of a small mortise.

A dovetail chisel on the other hand has a triangular section, which means that it will get into the tight pin socket between two tails (provided that you’re cutting thin tails like our friend Kaleo Kala enjoys – the photo on the homepage of his website is a good example of this) and this is the task where they really excel.

You should avoid to use these for more general tasks as they’re not as strong as a bevel edge chisel.

Currently you can find western type dovetail chisels, i.e. made with just O1 or A2 steel like the ones made by Ashley Iles or Blue Spruce Toolworks.

Fishtail chisels are yet another specialty chisel. The cutting edge is shaped in a way that it will get into the tail sockets of half-blind dovetails and you can use them to clean the left and right side of the sockets. An alternative is to use skew chisels (usually sold in pairs – right and left skew angles) but this will require two tools instead of one.

Again, like the dovetail chisels, you can get western type fishtail chisels. It’s just a question of preference. I tend to favor the Japanese ones.

As far as where to buy them, I would recommend you to check out the online stores (these will often have a wide range of brands and prices to choose from) and then see what’s available locally.

In Europe I would recommend you check out:

• Dieter Schmid
• Dick

In the US you will have more choices but these are my favorites:

• Tools For Working Wood
• The Japan Woodworker
• Garrett Wade

In the end you can’t go wrong with either a good quality western or Japanese chisel, some will prefer the western tools while others will favor the Japanese ones.

Chisels

If you are on a budget, a set of three bevel edge chisels (1/4″, 1/2″ and 3/4″) will get most of the job done. It’s nice to have a few more sizes, but I’d rather have only these three and have quality chisels than have all the sizes available from 1/8″ to 2″ of lower quality steel.

A lower quality chisel will be a rather disappointing tool. It wont keep a good edge for long, it may chip or get blunt easily and even when properly sharpened they won’t cut through wood effortlessly.

There’s nothing worse than cutting wood with a blunt tool. It tears the wood fibers instead of slicing them and your exposed joinery won’t look very good.

These days Lie-Nielsen chisels are rated very high, these are expensive tools but you get what you pay for.

In my shop I have some western style bevel edge chisels but the ones I wouldn’t live without are my Japanese chisels. These are easy to sharpen and hone and will take a very sharp edge that will last for a long time.

Japanese chisels are somewhat different than the western ones. They are forged with two different types of steel, one that his very thin and hard and will become the back and the cutting edge, and on top of this is a softer steel that will support it.

Furthermore there is a hollow in the back of the chisel so it is easier to flatten the back that is made of very hard steel. Some of the better chisels will have multiple hollows in the back for extra support. A good feature on larger chisels.

Due to their construction, the Japanese chisels can’t be hollow ground and must be sharpened on a waterstone or oilstone. And if you want to keep your chisels for a long time, never lever chips of wood if you’re cutting mortises with them. Take it easy on these and get a mortise chisel for the job.

So, what is on my set of chisels? Here’s what:

• 3mm (1/8″) Japanese dovetail
• 6mm (1/4″) Japanese dovetail and western bevel edge
• 12mm (1/2″) Japanese fishtail and western bevel edge
• 19mm (3/4″) Japanese bevel edge (multiple hollows)
• 25mm (1″) Japanese bevel edge (multiple hollows)

As you can see, I managed to get all the sizes from 3mm to 25mm but instead of just buying a set I built my set based on my needs. For small sizes I chose dovetail chisels, these are quite useful for working in small joinery, and for larger sizes I chose standard bevel edge chisels which can take a little more abuse.

The western chisels are somewhat redundant but I’ll use them for more coarse work and will save the edges of the Japanese chisels for the finishing work.

The fishtail chisel is what I’d consider a specially tool, it has a very thin blade and excels at cleaning the pins on half-blind dovetails.

My next purchase will be a long paring chisel around 36mm, but this one will have to wait.

Next installment: Handplanes

Can you imagine a jointer plane costing over $9.000? Well… take a look at this 28″ steel and ebony torpedo and you’ll see why. This thing will almost plane boards on it’s own.

• High-End Hand-Tool Sales Surge

I want it to be a low angle plane but making a wooden plane with a 12º bed is out of question, the body would be too thin to handle the strain, so I decided to take a different approach and instead of making a bevel up plane this will have the blade resting with the bevel down on a 37º bed.

This design should have the same cutting effect of the #60 1/2 since the angle of attack of a bevel up plane is the sum of the bed angle and the angle of the bevel of the blade (usually 12º + 25º respectively).

Pictured above is a sketch I made using SketchUp to have an idea of the dimensions. I guess it will work out fine!

The SketchUp model isn’t perfect but will give you an idea of all the parts and dimensions.

Attached files:

• Block plane sketch

• Make a Plane from a HOCK Plane Kit

In the end of the video you’ll also see the method used to tune a wooden handplane, with just a few taps you’re good to go. Simple and effective!

While we are on the subject of saws, here is a link to the best essay I’ve read on how to sharpen a saw blade:

• Saw Filing – A Beginner’s Primer

Enjoy!

Pictured on the right is a small bowsaw, which are usually found in the US and the UK where most bulkier sawing would be done with a large handsaw like a Disston D-8 or similar.

This type of saw will have a thin narrow blade and is most useful to cut curves.

On the other hand, traditional European bowsaws are larger saws, usually between 24″ and 26″ long.

This type of saw would be used in the continent to cut just about anything.

This saw has a clear advantage over a large panel saw. Because the blade is kept under tension it can be quite thin and the cutting goes much faster since there isn’t so much wood to remove.

Check out Bug Bear’s website for the famous bowsaw plan and you can make your own bowsaw.

Saws

Every toolbox should have at least two handsaws, one filled for rip cuts along the grain and another for crosscut. The rip saw, if used for ripping rough lumber, should be around 26″ long with 5 tpi.

The other essential saw should be a smaller crosscut saw like a 12″ long backsaw with around 13 tpi.

To complement your set of handsaws, and if you want to cut your dovetails by hand, you could add a dovetail saw which is a smaller backsaw with it’s teeth filled for rip cut and with a higher teeth ratio, usually around 16 tpi.

A small coping saw is also a good addition to any toolbox for those moments when you need to cut a curve on a small piece of wood and want to keep your fingers away from the bandsaw blade.

If you want to try the Japanese saws, the ryoba will be a good starter. This type of saw has teeth on both sides of the blade, one for rip cuts and the other for crosscut. You can pair the ryoba with a dozuki which is the Japanse equivalent of a backsaw. These can be found with both crosscut and ripcut profiles, the later being a great dovetail saw.

Next installment: Chisels

I haven’t built mine but I keep revisiting this article over and over again: Hand Made Hand Plane.

At just over 6″ long and with a 1 1/2″ iron it can be used as a block plane to trim edges and surface small pieces.

Enjoy!

A properly sharpened scraper attacking the wood at the right angle will produce thin curly shavings and will yield a perfectly smooth surface even on difficult woods like curly maple.

I searched the web and found four great videos showing slightly different techniques for sharpening a scraper and another two on using them.

• Barely Scraping By
  by Marc Spagnuolo
• Tuning-up a Scraper
  by Tommy MacDonald
• Tune Up a Card Scraper
  by Brian Boggs
• How to Burnish a Card Scraper
  by Bob Van Dyke

• Using a Card Scraper
  by Brian Boggs
• How to Use a Card Scraper
  by Bob Van Dyke

I hope you enjoy them as much as I did.

Every woodworker will have a different approach to the craft and will develop a preference for some tools as he or she gets more experienced. For instance, I prefer to work with a folding rule instead of a tape measure. Some will prefer western saws over Japanese ones, and so on…

Layout tools

Good joinery starts with precise measurements and clean layout lines. Sharp pencils, a birch folding rule, a trusty combination square like the Starrett 6″ model and a wheel marking gauge are absolute essentials in my workshop. I also use a tape measure when I’m dealing with large stock and when measuring boards at the lumberyard.

If you want to go a step further, I’d advise to replace the pencil with a marking knife when you want that extra precision and add a 3″ engineers square to check your tools against. I find the 3″ square quite useful to layout tenons on small pieces and whenever the 6″ one feels too cumbersome for the task.

To complete the kit you should add a bevel gauge so you can layout some angles and a 12″ combination square. This can be used to layout larger pieces and the ruler alone can be used as a small straight edge.

Next installment: Saws